Tuesday, 9 February 2016

Yep, the Bum Bag is Haute Again... Couture Fashion Week Trend Report

Bum bag, fanny pack... call it whatever (vaguely unsavoury moniker) you will - being the persistent and - apparently - practical types that they are, neither Karl nor Elie will call it a day whiles we're not all strapping them over our sequins. Chanel are now officially terming theirs a 'smartphone pouch', by the way, in case that invocation of your one true love (your rose gold 6S, obvs) sways you any.

The Bum Bag, L-R: Chanel; Elie Saab; Chanel

The word 'crochet' may not exactly scream 'couture' but, this fashion week, the homespun threads were not only to be found lurking within the walls of Karl's eco dream house, but loud and proud, front and centre of Donatella Versace's souped up "athletic couture" collection and insouciantly draped over Schiaparelli's classic-slash-surrealistic creations.

Crochet, L-R: Chanel; Atelier Versace; Schiaparelli

If I could spirit just one item into my own wardrobe, it would have to be an embellished bomber, seemingly resurrected in a new guise at every show. Less sports luxe, more sports art - sigh.

The Bomber Jacket, L-R: Atelier Versace; Giorgio Armani Prive; Chanel; Ulyana Sergeenko

Military styling notes met tiger print, red vinyl and even leopard-patterned lace...

Military Detailing, L-R: Alberta Ferretti; Alexandre Vauthier; Alexandre Vauthier

...but their most unexpected incarnations were to be found in recurrent references to the Regency-era gallant - had the designers been banking on cashing in on War & Peace mania..?

Regency Gent, L-R: Dice Kayek; Aouadi; Bouchra Jarrar

Lashings of pleats and ruffles made a rather less surprising showing...

Pleats Please, L-R: Alexandre Vauthier; Alexandre Vauthier; Schiaparelli; Alexis Mabille

...despite their occasional concealment beneath layers of Muppet-blue fun fur gilets and picnic rug-inspired bolero jackets.

Layering, L-R: Ulyana Sergeenko; Schiaparelli; Valentino

The '80s put in a persuasive bid to topple the overweening supremacy of the '70s, with peplums hemming everything from shorts to maxi skirts...

Pep Hems, L-R: Giorgio Armani Prive; Dice Kayek; Giorgio Armani Prive; Dice Kayek

...sleeves puffed to their most voluminous levels yet...

Puffball Sleeves, L-R: Dice Kayek; Chanel; Dice Kayek

...and stirrups cradling the arches of more models than Leonardo DiCaprio has on speed dial.

Stirrup Pants, L-R: Atelier Versace; Jean Paul Gaultier; Ulyana Sergeenko

Whether inspired by the '80s, '20s or C-3PO, metallics were the order of the day at many a show...

Foiled Again, L-R: Alberta Ferretti; Giorgio Armani Prive; Maison Margiela

But who needs tin foil when you have a cat burglar clutch... a dress covered in fairylights... a gold serpent to crown your medieval maiden raiment... or the most beautiful mule (not a contradiction in terms, as it turns out) the world has ever seen, not to mention the best-dressed ankle in Paris?

Finishing Touches, CW from L: Cat Burglar Clutch, Ulyana Sergeenko; Fairytale Fairylights, Yiqing Yin; Serpent Headress, Valentino; Mules, Dior

None of the above to hand? No worries - pyjamas are officially haute. Well, no one's going to ban anyone from doing the school run in these, are they?

Pyjama Party, L-R: Ulyana Sergeenko; Ralph & Russo; Jean Paul Gaultier

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