Showing posts with label LCS. Show all posts
Showing posts with label LCS. Show all posts

Saturday, 18 July 2015

Express Yourself (Editorial 3)

Hot on the heels of Editorial 2 came our third and final LCS styling challenge... and, this time, the brief was thrown wide open... Given a starting point of "Express Yourself", we were to target publication in an edgy mag in the mould of i-D. First thoughts (obviously) revolved around Madonna clad in double-breasted suit and monocle in the pop video of the same name... Hmm...

Since we were to be provided with our choice of male and/or female model once again, as in the previous shoot, I decided, once again, to take full advantage of the situation and use both, switching up my gender references (not that this turned out to be an entirely unique idea - at least half the class seemed to decide at this point that their portfolio would not be complete without at least one man in a skirt).

Delving into the street style archives and current catwalk collections for inspiration, I opted to combine elements of gothic Victoriana (inspired by Givenchy and Thom Browne's AW15 shows) with a nod to street-style sportswear, playing on the theme of expressing vs. concealing with sheer fabrics and veils. I'd already decided to use our final shoot to push myself out of my darkly romantic, vintage-inspired comfort zone with something a bit tougher and edgier, more graphic and pared-back... so this brief provided me with the perfect opportunity to do just that... which, on the whole, I think I managed pretty well, whilst retaining the essence of "my" style... because, OK, there is a darkly romantic vintage vibe (modern, female version of Charlie Chaplin, anyone?) about some of these shots, but so what?

Express Yourself, Editorial, Stylist, Androgynous, Gender Neutral, Velvet, Suit, Givenchy, Thom Browne, Faux Septum Ring

Express Yourself, Editorial, Stylist, Androgynous, Gender Neutral, Skirt, Mesh

Express Yourself, Editorial, Stylist, Androgynous, Gender Neutral, Velvet, Suit, Givenchy, Thom Browne, Faux Septum Ring, Sheer, Mesh

Street Style, Androgyny, Gender Neutral, Givenchy, Thom Browne

Photographer: Leigh Keily
Models: Bella Glanville at Milk and Phillip Gardner at Nevs
Make-Up: Martin Carter
Hair: Carolina Crona
Styling: Samantha Simmonds


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Wednesday, 15 July 2015

Into the Wild (Editorial 2)

When I heard that our second LCS editorial was to be shot on location, in "the wild", I was instantaneously possessed by an unassailable compulsion to conjure up an epic fairytale romance in the mode of a Leith Clark-styled Harper's story... This was what I'd been waiting for all my life. Drawing additional inspiration from the trademark dark romanticism (or "savage beauty", dare I say?) of Alexander McQueen's AW15 collection, and the mussed-up elegance of Haider Ackermann's SS15 menswear, I decided to make volume and layering the keystones of my "regally dishevelled" prince and princess's looks.

Editorial Shoot, Stylist, Cinderella, Samantha Simmonds, Sam Muses, Leith Clark, Harper's Bazaar, Andreia Chaves, Alexander McQueen, Haider Ackermann, SS15, AW15, Feathers, Twig Headdress, Headpiece, Fairytale, Layering, Volume
My Mood Board

Location and concept sorted... now I just had to style up "couture" looks for two on zero budget...

Easy. First stop - my own wardrobe. 4-year-old Limited Edition Primark dress (previously part of my Alice in Wonderland/Jesus - don't ask - costume, worn for last summer's onstage crucifixion) layered over £10 Izabel London tutu for a lavish tiered effect, and under Topshop's new dusky-feathered gilet for an additional "lift" and nod to the wilderness.

Accessories-wise, it was customisation o'clock once again... Inspired by Andreia Chaves' mirrored shoe boots, I marshalled a few hundred mirror mosaic tiles (nope, I'm not exaggerating), a whole lotta hot glue and 11 hours of my time in the service of creating my take on Cinderella's glass slippers...

Eliza Franks
Cinderella, pre- glass slipper loss (and/or disintegration)

Did they fare better than Cinders' originals in the great outdoors? Well... no, not really, since you ask, but Franco, our lovely photographer, was kind enough to touch up the tiles wickedly whipped away by the wind by the time the above image was shot #AboveandBeyondtheCallofDuty.

A bangle wrapped with ribbon and some illicitly-gathered twigs fashioned, along with some more of those damned mirror tiles, into a headdress, and Cinderella was complete. Then, of course, Prince Charming had to be appointed - from sources outside my own wardrobe, obviously (well, aside from the Primark faux fur... and I'm keeping that snake-print scarf).

Eliza Franks and Jack Harrison
On top of the world: my favourite shot

Photographer: Francisco Gomez de Villaboa
Models: Eliza Franks and Jack Harrison at Milk Management
Make-Up: Martin Carter
Hair: Carolina Crona
Styling: Samantha Simmonds


Keep your eyes peeled for the results of Editorial 3, coming soon to a screen near you...


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Sunday, 7 June 2015

Prints Charming: Styling my First Editorial...

Pattern Clash Editorial Behind the Scenes
A peek behind the scenes...

I'm sooo excited to finally be able to share the results of my first editorial shoot! Before starting at LCS - I'll be honest - the thought of styling men had never really crossed my mind, and the editorial work I'd come across by former students had left me feeling a little daunted, to say the least - could I ever hope to match that level of creativity? So the sheer amount of fun I had putting this look together came as a very big, but very pleasant, surprise (not to mention the sheer level of obsession which consumed virtually all waking (and sleeping - I genuinely dreamt of paisley) hours between brief and shoot.

Mood Board
My Mood Board

The brief was "Pattern Clash" - beyond this, we were free to take our creative vision wherever our imaginations might roam (whilst ensuring we remained within the remit of "fashion" by taking current runway and editorial trends into account). Three weeks of scouring street and web, despairing at the high street's dearth of printed menswear, setting my alarm to nab vintage gems on eBay and tarring (well, OK, glue-gunning) and feathering my favourite fedora later, and my Aristocrat on an Acid Trip look (inspired by a combination of influences from '60s psychedelia to Etro's paisley-centric rebel-luxe aesthetic) was complete. Now I just had to hope and pray for a model with long hair...

Pattern Clash Editorial 1

Result! Nevs sent over the lovely Henry Ashton, who carried off paisley-on-paisley-on-paisley-on...paisley with aplomb... with a nice little tonal gold-on-gold-on-gold touch courtesy of his luscious locks coming in as a bonus.

I think, however committed you are to your creative vision, it's tough not to second-guess your own work when it comes to the crunch, and lots of niggly little last minute doubts crowded in as the shoot approached - Does this really work with that? Is that just too much? Cravat or pussybow? Should I tilt his hat a fraction more? - to the effect that I was filled with equal parts excitement and trepidation in anticipation of the final images...

LCS_PATTERNS_SHOT_03_091
Photos: Cicci Feinstein

So for our lovely principal, Wendy, to tell me she could see this shot in a magazine, right now... I was over the moon and back! And really rather tempted to do a bit more with menswear... Do you think, if I try really hard, I can make paisley-on-paisley-on-paisley-on-paisley mainstream..?


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Friday, 5 June 2015

Personal Styling: Behind the (Fitting Room) Curtain

During my time at the London College of Style, I've had plenty of opportunities to get to grips with the fundamentals of personal styling - from wardrobe edits to shopathon challenges - and, as a result, had my eyes opened to a myriad of opportunities for stylistic satisfaction beyond the pages of those crazy-cool concept editorial shoots. And, whilst I'm not about to turn down a commission from i-D, seeing the smile which results from tweaking and expanding someone's conception of their personal style and, by extension, self-image - often without them spending a penny, but simply from mixing and matching items which may have lain untouched in their wardrobes for months or years in new ways - really is priceless.

Personal Styling by Sam Muses
Styled by Sam: Introducing Mummy Muses to pattern clashing, and helping the lovely Anna find a way to rock her neglected split-front midi

But this week, the tables were turned, as I took a turn playing client. Now, I'm rather protective of my own personal style, so, perhaps ironically, being styled is my idea of a nightmare... But, rather as trainee counsellors are required to submit to personal therapy, perhaps stylists can learn something from spending some time on the other side of the fitting room curtain?

Lesson One: Be Brand-Body Shape Aware

Or: Don't take curvy girls to Zara. Now, I'm not exactly Kim Kardashian, and I can shimmy into size 8 Miss Selfridge culottes or an extra-small H&M crop top with relative ease - but could I yank a pair of size small Zara palazzos over my hips, or get the zip done up over my E-cups on a dress which, notwithstanding its lack of room up top, sagged sadly around my waist? Not a chance. In hell. Which, despite my relatively (ahem) extensive wardrobe, didn't exactly make me feel awesome. Which leads me to...

Lesson Two: Make the Client Feel Good About Themselves (via Ensuring They Look Amazeballs)

Which is only possible if you remember that...

Lesson Three: It's All About Them

Whilst Zara was the perfect one-stop-shop for my stylist's athletic size 6 frame, the straight cuts and paucity of lycra just didn't work for my hourglass figure. As a personal stylist, you need to leave your own personal style, and shopping preferences, at the door, at least to a certain extent. So, whilst I might encourage a client to experiment with print, for example, my aim will always be to give them the tools to re-envision themselves as the best possible version of them - whilst I might wear killer lace-up heels with the shirt-and-skirt ensemble I pulled together from Anna's wardrobe, pictured above, I loved the cute hi/lo look we ended up with thanks to her suggestion to add her favourite white trainers into the mix - combining my fresh take on her wardrobe with her own individual flair to create something totally new, but still totally her.

Whilst I may have already had the theory down, living the client experience myself really brought the fundamentals into focus. Definitely worth taking a trip through the looking glass...


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Saturday, 9 May 2015

Colour Me... Confused? Colour Analysis on Trial

"Having your colours done" - something middle-aged women did in the '80s between Tupperware and Ann Summers parties, right? So not the sort of cutting edge technique you'd be taught as a budding stylist at somewhere as on-the-button and industry-centred as the London College of Style, surely? Well, actually...

Colour analysis is apparently going through something of a renaissance (if it ever really went away), and should forever remain, according to our special guest lecturer, stylist and colour expert Tanja Mrnjaus, a key weapon in the modern stylist's armoury, whether "in vogue" or not. So, does it live up to the hype?

Colour Analysis Swatches

In all respects, but perhaps particularly when it comes to matters of style, I will resist, kicking and screaming (metaphorically speaking), being locked into any kind of (metaphorical or literal) box. At the end of the day, personal style is personal, and individual considerations should always supersede blanket dictates based on categoristic pigeonholing, whether you're a pear-shape who happens to look great in printed palazzos, or a redhead who adores (bright) white. Having rejoiced in the freedom of scrapping the "low-neckline + cinched-waist + A-line/pencil hem" and "that shade would wash you out" rules I followed religiously throughout my late teens and early twenties, I'm certainly not going to stop buttoning my shirts up to the collar or floating around in empire lines because they "shouldn't" work for my hourglass shape (finding creative ways to make them work for me is a whole lot more satisfying), or ditch the "Summer"-coloured sundresses which really shouldn't be lurking in the wardrobe of a "Spring".

And there things become really confusing... Because, get me home, scrub my tan off and... ta-dah! Instant Summer. Or it would be, if Schwarzkopf hadn't just spent 7.5 hours dyeing my hair various shades of red and pink... So am I an Autumn now? I really hope not, because shades of leaf are not my bag... But, jokes aside, with some judicious self tan/hair dye/contact lens-based tinkering, I think I could probably inveigle my way into any of the four seasonal groups!

Timeline of an Identity Crisis
Diary of an Identity Crisis

Which means... you can break free of your box! Even if that means changing half your wardrobe to complement your new hair colour... (And, I must admit, there are colours which work better with my new look: warmer, deeper tones in my wardrobe are "popping" against my red/pink hair as they never did with blonde). As Tanja told us right away, an awareness of colour should actually increase, rather than restrict, the freedom with which you can approach your personal style - virtually everybody can wear virtually every colour, but certain shades of each colour are likely to suit you better than others (and if you really want to wear another shade, popping in some coloured lenses might just help!). And, whilst I would never dream of telling someone with "low contrast" colouring that they should dress exclusively in monochromatic colour palettes, if they were looking for a "wow" ensemble for an extra-special occasion, it would be a really interesting place to start.

As I see it, style "rules" (whether regarding colour, body shape or, indeed, anything else), function in two ways: (1) as super-useful baseline guidance... and (2) as challenges - if something "shouldn't" work, how can I make it work? Which, incidentally, is just how we're encouraged to approach things at LCS - if our flamboyant elderly client insists on wearing brightly coloured mini skirts (which complement her collection of shopping trolleys), then we darn well find a way to make her look great in a brightly coloured mini skirt (which complements her collection of shopping trolleys)... and if we want to wear a "Summer" coloured statement necklace, we wrap our "Winter" hair up in an appropriately-coloured (of course) turban - just like the ever-resourceful Tanja on the day she came in to impart her wisdom! So yes, rules were made to be broken, but knowledge = power.

Colour Analysis Class

What do you think? Have you ever considered colour analysis?


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